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Ross

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Everything posted by Ross

  1. Ross

    Warrior G5

    The small hole in the glove T is likely an alignment mark put in by the material cutter ( usually a laser) at the factory. It helps the worker that’s assembling the glove align the parts as they are assembled. The hole should be in line with the edge of the glove however if you can see the hole then your T will be slightly larger than it should be, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Smaller volume factories that cut the parts by hand or with a cutting table that uses a knife blade instead of a laser would mark this point with a pen. I design kiteboarding equipment and the factories that produce our kites do the same thing, with either laser cut holes or notches, to ensure correct alignment as they assemble the panels together.
  2. Ross

    G5 Toe Elastic Tab

    I had some grey Jenpro from the knee pad attachments inside my Warrior pants.
  3. Ross

    G5 Toe Elastic Tab

    Just got my custom G5 pads and decided to make some tabs to attach my elastic toe laces to. I prefer to have the elastic laces attach at at point that is directly in line with the front of my skate as I find I can use less tension in the elastic, which is easier on the body and yet the pad rotates back in place consistently. I made the same sort of thing for my G3 pads and it worked great for me for 3 years. I made the tabs from some hard plastic, out of an old knee pad, some Jenpro and some lacing. I laced the tabs through the 2 front holes and through the larger circular hole and one of the slits. I put a piece of plastic on the inside where the the lacing went through the larger circular hole and the slit to make the attachments more secure. Here are the pictures of the parts,tab attached to the pad and skate attached to the elastic laces.
  4. Different designers. Not a big deal, I just found it interesting that the logos were so similar.
  5. Back in 2006 a company that I was working with produced a diving Drysuit called Fusion. Interesting to see that JRZ is using the same logo on their Fusion pads. Coincidence? I wonder if someone who works there is/ was a diver.
  6. Ron, I sent you an email.
  7. beansbats, where did you order the synthetic ice from? What make? Thanks
  8. OceanMon, there’s a short video clip in my first post.
  9. Ross

    Warrior G5

    I have the G3 sr setup, been using it for 3 years, 3 times a week for beer league at a level probably similar to yours. Everything has held up well with very minimal wear. Was going to get G5 sr stuff but when The Goal Crease had the special on recently for the custom gear I went for pro...
  10. It will be interesting to see what happens with the built in knee block over time as the internal foams break down. With the knee blocks that rely on Velcro or binding to hold them secure they can be adjusted/ tightened over time to make up for the foams breaking down and usually if needed the foams can be replaced.
  11. I used ballistic nylon for the T and reinforced it with uhmw plastic. Even though it’s much larger than the T it had it’s now lighter.
  12. Was looking at the official ball hockey rules ://isbhf.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/ISBHF-Rulebook.pdf and noticed that they allow much larger gloves and blockers. So with all this extra time I decided to make the pocket/T on my glove as big as is allowed. Picture below shows it next to my G3 glove that I use for ice.
  13. For floor hockey yes I’m still using my own goalie pads. I just installed a set of Kenesky Speed Sliders on them. I’ve only used them once with the speed sliders but they seem to slide better than the hook Velcro I was using before.
  14. I sometimes play against a young goalie who has a really good glove hand and on breakaways he really moves it out in front and moves it around, doesn’ keep it stationary. I started doing the same and for me it helps. As Martin Brodeur says - "I try to get his attention, say I wave my glove at him when he's coming in so he knows I'm ready for the top shelf," Brodeur said. "I'll move my blocker or fake a poke check if he's looking at me."
  15. Ross

    Giving it a go

    https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor. Servo motors are great for controlled detailed sewing.
  16. There’s a good video on the members only InGoal Magazine site of Carter Hutton where he talks about taping his ankles. He says it gives him better side to side support but still allows for good forward flex.
  17. I be been using some Poron foam around the area where my cage contacts the mask. Noticeably better than not having it. Would like to get some D30 foam to try it with.
  18. Assembly of the shock cord: Fold the shock cord in half, so there is 13 feet on either side. Pass the folded end through one of the eyebolts on the end next to the 24” x 24” plywood. Pass the free ends of the shock cord through the folded end and pull tight. Run the 2 ends of the shock cord up and through the pulley at the far end. Run the ends of the shock cord back through the other pulley. Pass the ends of the shock cord through the eyebolt on the sliding platform.Run the ends of the shock cord through the pulley. Run the ends of the shock cord through the other pulley. Pass the ends of the shock cord through the last eye bolt. Tie the shock cord around itself using a figure 8 knot. Make sure the shock cord isn’t twisted and that the sliding platform moves smoothly when pushed. If you want more resistance then shorten the length of the shock cord. Apply a couple of layers of interlocking foam matts to the 24” x 24” plywood with the double side tape. . Give it a test and then go have a beer. If you need any more info let me know.
  19. Here’s the assembly: On one of the 15” long 2x4 pcs drill a hole in the middle/ center and screw an eye bolt in and attach a double pulley. On another 15” long 2x4 pc drill 3 holes, one in the middle/ center and then 2 on either side about 3” off center. Screw eye bolts into the holes and attach a double pulley to the center eye bolt. Assemble the frame using 2 pcs of the 72” 2x4 as side rails and use the 3 pcs of 15” 2 x4 as cross braces. Note the the piece with the single eye bolt goes at one end, the piece with no eye bolts goes at the other end and the piece with 3 eye bolts goes so it’s edge is 24” from the end. Predrill all deck screw holes and screw together with 3” deck screws. Now attach the other 2 pieces of 72” 2x4 so they lay flat against the side rails and are flush with the outside edges of the frame. Screw into place. The sliding platform has the 14 1/2” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood as the bottom base. On top of this goes the 10 1/2” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood, in the pictures I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead. On top of this goes the 2 pcs of 10 7/8” 2x4. I used double sided tape to hold these parts together but you could also use glue or clamps. Make sure that there is equal amounts of the base plywood extending out on both sides. Screw together using 1 1/4” drywall screws. On one end of the sliding platform drill a hole in the center/ middle of one of the 2x4 and then screw in an eye bolt. Place the sliding platform between the rails of the frame , making sure that the eyebolt is facing the cross brace that has 3 eyebolts, and take a spare piece of 2x4 and wedge it underneath the sliding platform so that the platform is pressed up against the side rails. . If you are using the Glide Guards then attach them to the 18” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood with double sided tape. Now this piece can be attached to the sliding platform. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside edge of the rails and then screw in place with drywall screws. Slide the platform fore and aft to make sure it moves smoothly. On top of the sliding platform attach the 9 1/4” piece of 2x4 with deck screws. Attach the 24” x 24” piece of 3/4” plywood to the top of the end of the frame. It should sit flush with the end of the frame and then extend equal amounts, 3”, out on the sides. Screw in place with drywall screws.
  20. Here are the cut sizes of the parts: 4 pcs 2x4 72” long 3 pcs 2x4 15” long 2 pcs 2x4 10 7/8” long 1 pcs 2x4 9 1/4” long 1 pc 1/4” plywood 14 1/2” x 7” 1 pc 1/4” plywood 18” x 7” 1 pc 1/4” plywood 10 1/2” x 7” - note on mine I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead of a single piece as that’s all I had laying around. 1 pc 3/4” plywood 24” x 24” 2 pcs Glide Guard 18” long with raised edge on one side cut off.
  21. Here’s the first of a couple of posts showing how to make this thing. Bear with me as I don’t work for IKEA so I’m not used to writing assembly instructions. I took the one I made apart so I can show pictures of it going back together. With the exception of the shock cord you should be able to get everything from somewhere like Home Depot. Materials: 5 pcs 8’ 2x4 1 pc 24” x 24” 3/4” plywood 1 pc 24” x 24” 1/4” plywood 3” deck screws 1 1/4” drywall screws 5 pcs of 3” eye screws 2 pcs of double pulleys that are good for 3/8” rope. On mine I used a couple of really nice ball bearing pulleys that I had laying around from sailboats in the past. I checked Home Depot on the have some that should be ok. If you can’t get double pulleys then used 2 single pulleys instead. 26’ of good quality 3/16” shock cord. I got mine from a local marine store. Places like REI or Mountain Equipment Co Op should have it. I used a product called Glide Guard, that I had from a recent kitchen Reno, to reduce friction on the part that you push with your leg. I think it will work fine without it if you don’t want to buy it. A couple of pieces of foam interlocking floor tiles to go on the plywood that you rest your knee/ leg on. Tools: Drill with 1/8” bit Screwdrivers or bits that fit drill Tape measure Square Saw Doubled sided carpet tape. This works well for holding some parts together before screwing as well as holding the foam tiles to the plywood.
  22. I ‘ll post it tomorrow. Turkey time now.
  23. As I don’t get much time to work on my butterfly pushes when I’m on the ice I wanted to make something that would simulate the movement and also add a decent amount of resistance so that I build strength. I regularly do Maria Mountain’s exercises using resistant bands so I decided to take it a step further. Some 2 x 4’s, a couple of pulleys, a piece of plywood and some shock cord and I made this. I’ve had it for about a month now and I really notice a difference on the ice. I’ve got the shock cord tensioned so that it takes about a 35 lb force to start the push. This can be increased or decreased depending on the length of the shock cord. I like that the bottom of my foot rests on the corner of the block so it feels very similar to pushing the blade on ice. If anyone wants to make one I can give you dimensions etc... B05670BD-363B-4C39-9335-794DA88294D3.MOV
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