ArdeFIN

Actually no, Curv from what I've seen is some sort of plastic infused fibermat, but best of them all so far. It has good flexibility but it still hold up the structural rigidity atleast in the Vapor 2X blocker that I quickly examined a while ago. Hypercomp is more like a normal fiber sheet with resin. In these gloves it is used as a plain sheet and in cathcer it is attached to the plastic in some specific process. That seems to hold very well but the problem is that the plastic that the Hypercomp is added to isn't up to the task. Or maybe it is the Hypercomp that didn't hold. I thought I had some more pictures of it but can't find them or I just didn't take them. One picture from pre-assembly to see that everything fits in and are about in the right shape. There is a bit of an issue with the new finger plastic and the fixed edge. The plastic is pushing towards the break line and I might have to add a lace line to where my fingers end inside to hold the plastic in place. Then a few pictures of the ready gloves together. I'll take them to test round on sunday. I'm not really impressed with the pocket yet as I used the original laces that are the annoying stiff type that has been used by CCM earlier. Too bad that Warrior is possibly using it too. I'll propably redo the pocket later with skate lace or if I can source some black lace then I'll use that. I made the pocket with one loop less than the original to make it a bit more loose or easier to see through. Not that I would ever look through the pocket but. Well yeah. The other thing is the glove angle, I now have the 75 degree palm and it feels just a little off to a way that I think a 90 degree would work better. I have one 90 degree palm for Warrior available locally but not sure of the model so I might have to check it out if the 75 isn't my thingy. And if the Warrior catcher is what I like at all.

Then some pictures of the plates. I have to replace both of them because there is some damage. The Hypercomp again oh well I don't know how much it really does here. The plastic that Warrior uses here is very stiff even without the Hypercomp addition. Maybe it does add something that you can actually notice but it's hard to say from looking the materials and civilized quessing. And if you got to compare Pro and SR you would have to check the internal that the padding is the same too. The thin strip at the break is the usual milky PE plastic though, for some reason no Hypercomp is needed there. Edge if the finger plate. Thumb side plastic is destroyed. The glove propably wasn't really good anymore but it felt as a working one though. And once again without comparison to a new gear you couldn't tell. I would assume that the thumb side of the T was a bit floppy and could let the pucks through. The massive concavity on this plastic makes it really difficult to replace and I'm going to try and make it more straigth and only retain all the shapes that are necessary for the closure to work like it should.

So the glove had some significant wear on the finger edge that had to be dealt with. And from previous gloves I know this is shitty job as my sewing machine isn't just strong enough to penetrate all the layers and there are many. So I had to make some hidden cutouts to help my machine a bit. It's kind of annoying that they have so many zones there and sure it makes the colored glover look nice. But there is a lot of extra sewing job to do. So I took all of the zone pieces out and replaced them with new jenpro. And some artistic added stitching... The binding is worn but I don't have anything to put there and it'll wear out again anyways. Then the part I was worried about was sewing everything together again. I had some from cutting out the stacked layers and went pretty smoothly after all. Some worn sewings were renewed too and I added a piece of jenpro to the boot area of the T as it would fail sooner or later. Gear heads want to see what's inside, here's the padding layer. Cuff is the usual thick board build just like the blocker except no plate. It's meant to be a bit soft? Palm has a layer of some 5mm thick and stiff foam with nylon fabric. (White balance in picture is way off the target) Side view of the cuff plate.

I just yesterday had a chance to check some gear while I had my steels sharpened and there were Axis 2.9 and Axis 2 gloves and yes I tried them first. Cheez they were stiff, like STIFF. And more stiff than that. I wasn't able to close any of the four samples there were. The closest I got was about an inch open. Sure I could close them with a bit of help from my other hand but. Yeah. And that said I don't have to say anything about how much I was able to open them. No I wasn't. Other than that I couldn't say they felt bad or odd. The angles of them and not just break angle were a different story and I might have some trouble getting into that. Not even close to the traditional 590 shape. But I'm not saying it would be bad. Just that it felt and looked a lot more different than I would've expected.

Finally I had all the parts ready and could put everything back together. I might have to add some foam to backhand of the palm as I have to tighten the wrist strap a lot and it still feels a bit wobbly. Only the palm shows some actual wear in these pictures.

There was some nasty wear propably from using tape on the stick. And that had to be repaired for practising reason atleast. The thumb protector was easy with just a new seam. Sewed this with the outside on top so I didn't see what was happening in the inside and didn't catch the nylon fabric perfectly. But it'll hold. On the outside there still some wear to see but it doesn't have any effect other than looks used. The Index finger protector was more difficult as the structure was designed horribly. Though propably not designed to be repaired but these parts are still laced in and not sewn. A slice of new jenpro to cover the worn area and I had to cut a 5mm from the edge under the jenpro to get it done. Looks sharp and still protects th fingers as it should. Actually works better now to my liking as it doesn't push my paddle and let's me hold the blocker in line with it. Not the easiest repair I've done while looks really simple. Might get this done easier in the next time but I'm certainly not looking for it. Then some plate job. The Hypercomp was destroyed so loyal PE sheet in 2mm thickness was used. I also added a sheet of 5mm thick dense but soft foam to beef the blocker a bit as the original plate had shrunk a lot from pucks and hitting the post with the edges.

Don't try to stretch anything but make them all properly even. The plastics will keep everything in shape and laces hold the layers together. Seems that you have the pocket end of the break messed up in some way and it is now rolling over itself. This is the area I've had a fight with most of the gloves I've done so far. It's a result of use and needs variety of tricks as far as I know. And unfortunately I can't give any proper advice that would do miracles here. If you have a picture of the padding layer that would help. Atleast I might be able to point you the possible problem areas. Edit: Uh you had the padding layer there earlier, then how about the thumb plastic?

Don't know the names but you should see how they look now...

I've already checked the famous HyperComp in the G4Pro refurbish thread so nothing really new in the first picture. Sidewall on this blocker was soft and bent badly right where the stick/paddle extends out from the glove. Plastic joint or splice or what ever tech they use to bond these carbon layers together has failed. Really doesn't look very promising material to me. Then it gets worse. At first I thought someone already had opened the glove and replaced the plate but that hadn't happened. Why had they changed the main material from that thick and dense resilient foam to the styrofoam? Less weight might be the reason. But that results in shortened lifetime: On the front side of the board there is dense and stiff layer of foamed plastic and in front of that a plate made of atleast 7 layers of clear plastic. And the plastic sheet is as destroyed as the foams are. It might be that the plastic layer isn't up to the task of protecting the softer layers underneath it or that the foams are just too brittle to handle the strikes from the pucks and when the foams collapse behind the plastic sheet it looses the support and breaks into pieces too. Measurement of the board in millimeters. After I opened this thing to see what's inside I immediately checked Finnish Facebook goalie gear market place and found two G5 blockers for sale. Other one looked from the images to be in the same condition as this blocker is and the other mentioned in the text that the board feels a bit crumbled on the front. Hopefully Warrior changed the materials for G6 back to what they had in G4 or something new and better. Ah yes, this blocker was used by U18 goalie not playing in the top level here in Finland. So not the best of shots but still a lot of use as they do train many times a week plus games.

Here's a short 2 pic story of how to fix simple hole on blockers finger. This mod is easily done with needle and strong sewing thread, speedystitcher etc. So there are holes on thumb where the stronger leather patches end long before finger tip which causes this issue. You want to use your finger tip to get a grip of your stick. Another hole is on the index finger just where the reinforcement layer end. Not surprising either and very common to happen. This hole was the issue that lead my friend to ask me to fix this glove as the leather is so worn that the hole is taking over the material quickly. I had some excess pieces of suregrip or whatever it is called but anything from jenpro to real leather goes. Jenpro might not be the best choice though. Open up the sewing on index finger edges and cut out the worn piece of material. Use that cutout to shape a new piece. Sew it in. If you are using sewing machine or just want more room anyway check if you can disconnect the finger protector and that you can attach it again when ready. Thumb was easier techvise; remove the elastic connecting the finger tip to protector, cut a new material to cover the hole and enough extra to reach over the old reinforcement material. Sew in and reattach the elastic and it's done. If using a sewing machine then you have to open the thumb farther than you need to add new material to get the machine in. It takes an hour or two but the feel of the glove is a lot better without those annoying holes. You can't really feel the edges on materials of the index finger even that you can clearly see them. I should've washed this glove but my friend was in a hurry to get this back to use...

This is what I mean with long finger side. The 580 is extended far out compared to other glove models. Green line in picture should be square to the break line on the palm.

After a very long quiet looking after I finally got this one to reset myself back to Warrior chesty feeling. Almost back to square one but that would actually be RBK 9K and I still own that thing Wasn't really cheap but only about 10 times used so pretty much brand new including new gear smell. Only found one puck mark on elbow floater and one on shoulder floater. And after some re-setting and rethinking I feel like I'm home again. Hopefully I feel the same after I get this to the real test.

We do have some palms available here in Europe but unfortunately the shipping will add 10-15€ to the price so it'll be pretty expensive palm option. I don't know if you could deduct the VAT (24% in Finland) if you can find a store that would ship to US/CAN.

The overall shape looks different if you compare to todays 580 perimeter. Fingerside is way short towards the T. Was @coopaloop1234 new Axis 2 gear in the New gear topic where there was a 580. Other than that this looks 580; break line is close to wrist and lot of similarity to 590 in the perimeter shape. For the T shape and closure, any T can be made to close like 580. You only need to add length to the finger side plastic and shorten the thumb side. That'll force the T to fold towards thumb. And when you want to fix T closure to be straigth do the opposite. Only 5mm would already do the magic.

Thought I'd pick an example of making new holes and found one from the Opt1k 9.0 topic. This is a good example of how to mess up closure and operation generally. And with these re-alignments it became really good. Even with added padding layer. One thing to take of when making measurements for new holes, remember to mark them when glove is shut and check again when wide open. There will be extra material in break area when wide open as the palm layer is "stretched" when glove is closed and if you only measure and make holes with glove open it will propably be unable to close at all.

If you see through my glove repair topics it's almost certain that the thumb side of the padding has the lace holes mismatched to the rest of the parts. When you compare the holes, check that the break lines match on padding, palm and jenpro layers. Then try to find all of the holes that match through all layers and then proceed to make new holes where required. I try to avoid making new holes to surface materials at all. And almost always have succeeded with only making new holes to padding layer and plastics. Is the thumb side plastic still in one piece??

Still never used one myself. I once again own a pair of G4 gloves and after I get them refurbished I'll see how it goes without this strap. If that is the only thing I miss I'll make one to try it. I've had bad experiences with Warrior gloves earlier so I'm not expecting much. But I want to give them a fair chance again.

Noticed one more thing I do without noticing it is I control my slide a lot with the dragging / kicking leg. That does open the backhand ice but that also happens somewhat with my narrow BF so it's a kind of lose-lose situation. I should start practising the weight movements while sliding to be able to change my movement to opposite direction. This is where too much speed is also bad, the momentum is heavy.

It just requires a new style to control the slides. I've noticed myself using the toe box and front point of the steel of my skate a lot more when I need to slow down the slide. That way I don't open the ice at all. And I'm really just learning how to play goalie and will never be anything called good anymore being over 43 now. Sad but true.

Never seen Hypercomp before, now I have. I'll just leave these pictures here. Maybe add some explanation later. Blocker plates under the HyperComp, white is very stiff and hard kind of foamed plastic. Black is a bit softer foam. Not sticking together anymore but will get some glue later on. Palm parts will go into soaking process. Why the hell people don't take the chance of washing these in a machine every now and then? It even might help with the glove slipping issue when you don't have all of the grease and filth built in the gloves. Black foam is finished and will be replaced. There is 2mm sheet of white foam underneath. 10mm thick white foam will replace all of it. It's still soft but stiffer than original. Should give a better touch and control to what the blocker is doing.

Long time gone but now these are back in the business. Kova Repairs stuffed in the Pro cores and now I really have G5 pads. Just to say I don't know the difference to SR+ pads as mine were broken but the change to new and fit Pro core is still huge. As I have in my GT pads I asked Topi to add some curve to knee - thigh rise so that I can close my 5-hole properly and it works as planned. There really isn't a lot of difference in feel to my GT pads but for some undefined reason I like the feel of the GT pads a bit more. Hair splitting more though and I do feel I'm home in the G5 pads too. I'll add a picture later on but there really isn't anything to show as only cores were replaced. Discussion with Warrior is still going on but we have some sort of agreement already...

I said I'd like to see what happens on your feet and pads when you go down to BF as you mention your pads travel down your legs. I do understand the physics when you are down on BF and fall off the knee stack. While it doesn't give anything to anyone the only times I've fallen off the knee stack were when I tried on some fluffy Eflex500 pads in oversized 34+3. Other pads I've used are Warriors 32, 33 and 34+1,5, RBK 33+2, Vaughn 33+2. Warriors are the newest samples. Never have had any extra strapping behind my knee except the RBK padsa are with Professor as I wanted to try it out. Works beautifully so no complains, but can't tell if those pads really do need them straps as I haven't tried them without the professors. Pads have changed every now and then, but I've always wore Warrior knee pads, G4 and GT both sr level I think. CCM Premier and Warrior X2Pro pants. Edit: Now that I think of it. Could it be atleast partly from the S-curve on pads? When you go to smaller pads to lift your knee higher on stack you at the same time push the pad outward as your knee is more against the thigh rise than in bigger pad. This would somewhat explain why some top goalies in NHL fall from the stack when they stretch out either of both of their legs straight. The stiff thighrise does the job and pushes the pads outwards so that the knee lands out behind. This reminds me from one occasion last winter when I was watching some kiddos having their exercises on ice and the goalie had some nice new pads (maybe Bauer Supreme) and I saw his leg through the gap between calf and knee stack. And there was atleast 50mm of space between his knee and pad when he was standing upright and legs straight. Skinny boy he was too which exaggerated the view. Hypothetic thinking is involved.

Just for this part, would be interesting to see you going down to BF. As my pads always try to run up a bit when going down. Physics that happen on my landing I can realise easily ofcourse but I cannot figure out how you can run your pads down your leg when going down to butterflying.

Opt1k9.0 repaired, some added padding, new plastic, T fixes. Warrior G4Pro catcher Warrior G4Pro blocker Eflex Pro blocker original Eflex Pro blocker refurbished

Here we go once again. So these were available for reasonable price considering the need for some repairs. But from the sales ad I thought these were worse than they appeared. Warrior catcher gloves after G2 have looked really small but the perimeter is 112cm which is more than Bauer 1X was. Not a lot of possibility to add any length either. Catcher palm is 75deg, but as usual I don't have any other palm available to compare. Doesn't feel bad at all though. Blocker is with L palm which is a bit short on fingers for me. Things to be fixed are the finger edge on the cathcer and that is all that can be seen without dismantling. Blocker has a few small worn spots that I'll fix the I can without overdoing those, and the sidewall is broken at the middle (bumby area in the picture right next "Warrior" -text logo. Alos the blocker plate needs some attention but can't tell more about that before I'll get it open. These are known to be lightweigth and the catcher is 849g. And blocker is few grams below that. As these are popular gloves now you can give me suggestions on what to look at and what I should document for you. One that I've in my mind is opening the catcher as it is always the problem when someones asking for advice to change the pocket lace. But what else? Comment below or PM me.