dreadlocked1

Check Simmons goalie equipment. I've been using the 995 model for a long time. I am 5'6 and wear a senior-medium.

Agreed that I don't come here for politics or worldviews, but I would appreciate the freedom for forum members to start their own on-topic thread to continue discussion. This particular topic is difficult to hardline with other topics. There are people here who have given up playing and others that have never stopped playing. That in itself will cause underlying drama and opinions of each other as individual views of what this period in time truly is and how we've reacted so far. I wouldn't want to go to another social media platform to try and find a continuation of discussion. These are all real people/goalies trying to make a point, and I don't want to sift through a Twitter or Facebook(I don't have either). This did get off topic, but please let that debate continue elsewhere, should the duelers choose to do so. If you read all this, thanks for reading.

Pack up your gear into the safest (lock on a bag(a) instead of boxing it should be okay but ask your local shipper (DHL, UPS, & FedEx for example), reasonable to move package count. Use a tape measure and scale (always round up) to get your dimensions (LxWxH) and weight of each piece. Call your airline and ask how much the carry on charge will be using the info you now have, as well as call your local shippers for quotes and additional questions you may have (locks are okay through customs?). You should be able to add insurance to shipping for a small fee. If it smells like a dead body I'd clean it a bit, not because it will be investigated, but because no one will want to touch it, so your gear may get "neglected" in terms of handling (imagine your bag being tossed violently as it's being loaded/unloaded because no one wants to touch it). It also may prevent tampering, a plus, so you have decisions to make.

Yes, the knee cradle is what I meant and you green boxed perfectly. I removed that from my pads and a friend's CCM Eflex set and it's much nicer without it imo.

I would remove the stitched in landing gear, as a suggestion. I have done it on my old RBK's to open up the knee area more when I first started using knee pads.

Not getting it.

The leg channel and toe tie will keep the pad centered. I would remove it to allow unlimited freedom of movement there. I ditched my boot straps on my pads several years back and wish I had done it sooner. Regardless, if you don't like it after a few tries you can always put them back on.

Dim weight most likely: https://www.fedex.com/en-us/shipping/packaging/what-is-dimensional-weight.html

Can you take a pic with them covering your knees on floor? I've always been curious how the curious as to the coverage of these.

I'm sorry, but you can barely formulate a readable post most of the time. If English is not your first language, then forget all this. But if it is....you suggested to us readers a neck guard for $100.00. Then provided us lazy people a link to an article from 2014 about the idea and prototype of it. The links attached to that article no longer work or are outdated. Can you please provide a link, for my lazy ass, to a site where I could review the finished product and possibly purchase?

I replied in the Prolaces thread.

Which color did you use? From reading this link, purpke and blue can be broken but red requires some serious heat. https://itstillruns.com/remove-loctite-bolts-5201363.html Personally, I would cut the Prolaces free of the leather and make my own TGN spec and attach with skate lace.

Look how they're not social distancing! Tsk tsk.... j/k - good for them, glad to see some normalcy.

Can you post some pics?

I never got it to work. Maybe because it was TGN spec (the best ) and those are cheaper than the other kinds. I had this issue before. Not a big deal, I was gonna pick up a spare set. Mine are still going strong.

Website says the coupon is expired.

I pictured it as you had wrapped a good portion of the paddle for some reason, but I get what you mean now. Thanks for the pics DL42.

You should post a final pic of what you ended up with. I would imagine the whole set up adds a bit of weight to the stick? I would definitely try your idea. I think I could make it work as I'm using a 23.5" intermediate, but was comfortable as well with a 25" senior. I was going for a minimalist tape job or I would have added a tape bump or two (top and bottom of index finger down the paddle) underneath the tape for additional support, but wanted to try this first (pic is my covid-house stick with this). I've never owned a top tier stick until now, so I wanted to keep the weight down. I ended up with Bladetape and Buttendz Future knob as well. Love the newer tech now. I warm up with a more heavily taped CR/3 for that perception to super-light stick transition.

Thanks, I have seene that. The tennis overwrap is probably close to the same thing. Curious to the Bauer's durability. 3 bucks for 3 wraps, or 7 bucks for one that doesn't appear to be long enough to go down the paddle. I'll stick with the overwrap.

After, I'm pretty sure, reading on here about tennis overwraps, I did some experimenting with tapes on the paddle, knob and blade. While I'm not willing to cut a fiberglass paddle (yet), I have no issues cutting the shaft down a few inches (3-6") if necessary. I was cutting my senior sticks but have yet to cut my intermediate sticks since starting to use them this year. For the paddle, regular hockey cloth tape is the least grippy, then grip tape, then tennis overwrap tape. I do have to seal it up with some cloth tape, and I probably could have used more for a better tape job, but I was going for weight savings to keep my stick as light as possible. The over wrap tape is 3 bucks at Walmart. I've gotten at least 12 games with it so far without major wear and tear. It definitely doesn't seem as durable as the other two tapes. The grip is great and works well for me.

I see what you're saying now about the change midway through the mid-lane and, no, it was not done on purpose. I knew after I was done that something looked odd and that I may have to redo it, but now I will for sure. The biggest issue was the thumb-side starting knot was actually inside the thumb area inside the glove. It took several blind grabs with needle-nose pliers to get the original knot out and, although I wanted to do it differently and make it easier for next time, I ended up redoing the same way as the original.

@ArdeFIN Thanks for the tutorial. I redid my Simmons 995 with skate lace back in 2010 or 2011 using a guide from the GSBB. By the time I got my 998 glove in 2015, I had a 3 year old and didn't want to take the time to do it again, so I paid Simmons a little extra to have it done. It was more than worth it as I had no idea how to tackle the double T and they did a nice job. Now in 2020, I just got set of Warrior R/GT2 senior gloves and I was excited it was going to come with skate lace. Unfortunately, the lace job was less than desirable. The mid lace was a tight spine and the sides were too tight and there was little visibility into the pocket. Sometimes this is important to me for tracking a puck in some situations, so the instruction above gave me confidence to do a mid relacing and it came out satisfactory. I ended up redoing the entire glove this week after the test run last weekend, and I'm going to give this a go on Sunday. The Warrior glove lacing was a pain in the butt to remove.

What size are you looking for? There's a couple of sets on sideline swap already.

Agreed. It also looks hot. Like very warm to wear. Looking forward to a review.

Most supermarkets in the Midwest have cheese in 1 to 2 spots. In Wisconsin, it's easily 5-6 spots or more. I'm a FIB and originally from IL, which is the middle part of FIB. You can look up the rest