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Butterfly Push Exerciser


Ross
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As I don’t get much time to work on my butterfly pushes when I’m on the ice I wanted to make something that would simulate the movement and also add a decent amount of resistance so that I build strength. I regularly do Maria Mountain’s exercises using resistant bands so I decided to take it a step further.  Some 2 x 4’s, a couple of pulleys, a piece of plywood and some shock cord and I made this. 

I’ve had it for about a month now and I really notice a difference on the ice. I’ve got the shock cord tensioned so that it takes about a 35 lb force to start the push. This can be increased or decreased depending on the length of the shock cord. I like that the bottom of my foot rests on the corner of the block so it feels very similar to pushing the blade on ice.

If anyone wants to make one I can give you dimensions etc...

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24 minutes ago, Ross said:

As I don’t get much time to work on my butterfly pushes when I’m on the ice I wanted to make something that would simulate the movement and also add a decent amount of resistance so that I build strength. I regularly do Maria Mountain’s exercises using resistant bands so I decided to take it a step further.  Some 2 x 4’s, a couple of pulleys, a piece of plywood and some shock cord and I made this. 

I’ve had it for about a month now and I really notice a difference on the ice. I’ve got the shock cord tensioned so that it takes about a 35 lb force to start the push. This can be increased or decreased depending on the length of the shock cord. I like that the bottom of my foot rests on the corner of the block so it feels very similar to pushing the blade on ice.

If anyone wants to make one I can give you dimensions etc...

D12922D7-7084-4FEE-B8F8-35EF06C39DC5.jpeg

CCB90803-DA61-403F-AAF0-5494A8AC60AC.jpeg

7F515D90-1673-4C7B-8886-6B65A0592E1F.jpeg

89CC022B-604B-45D5-9CD6-2CC125BF6CF1.jpeg

FB1787D7-4280-4284-8D50-C268FF3D3257.jpeg

B893809D-5A70-4318-B693-6CAD3CFDFAF8.jpeg

Dimensions? Parts list? Plans? Instructions?

I want one.

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Here’s the first of a couple of posts showing how to make this thing. Bear with me as I don’t work for IKEA so I’m not used to writing assembly instructions. I took the one I made apart so I can show pictures of it going back together. With the exception of the shock cord you should be able to get everything from somewhere like Home Depot.

Materials:

5 pcs  8’  2x4

1 pc 24” x 24”  3/4” plywood 

1 pc 24” x 24”  1/4” plywood 

3” deck screws

1 1/4” drywall screws

5 pcs of 3” eye screws

2 pcs of double pulleys that are good for 3/8” rope.  On mine I used a couple of really nice ball bearing pulleys that I had laying around from sailboats in the past. I checked Home Depot on the have some that should be ok. If you can’t get double pulleys then used 2 single pulleys instead.

26’ of good quality 3/16” shock cord. I got mine from a local marine store. Places like REI or Mountain Equipment Co Op should have it.

I used a product called Glide Guard, that I had from a recent kitchen Reno, to reduce friction on the part that you push with your leg. I think it will work fine without it if you don’t want to buy it.

A couple of pieces of foam interlocking floor tiles to go on the plywood that you rest your knee/ leg on.

Tools:

Drill with 1/8” bit

Screwdrivers or bits that fit drill

Tape measure

Square

Saw

Doubled sided carpet tape. This works well for holding some parts together before screwing as well as holding the foam tiles to the plywood.

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Here are the cut sizes of the parts:

4 pcs 2x4  72” long

3 pcs 2x4  15” long

2 pcs 2x4  10 7/8” long

1 pcs 2x4  9 1/4” long

1 pc 1/4” plywood 14 1/2” x 7”

1 pc 1/4” plywood 18” x 7”

1 pc 1/4” plywood 10 1/2” x 7” - note on mine I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead of a single piece as that’s all I had laying around.

1 pc 3/4” plywood 24” x 24”

2 pcs Glide Guard 18” long with raised edge on one side cut off.

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Here’s the assembly:

On one of the 15” long 2x4 pcs drill a hole in the middle/ center and screw an eye bolt in and attach a double pulley.FF312D55-3AAA-4EEF-8CC1-6D61FE2FFA06.thumb.jpeg.ddb074f1f242c2c7f2654d2c6e5a6337.jpeg

On another 15” long 2x4 pc drill 3 holes, one in the middle/ center and then 2 on either side about 3” off center. Screw eye bolts into the holes and attach a double pulley to the center eye bolt.
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Assemble the frame using 2 pcs of the 72” 2x4 as side rails and use the 3 pcs of 15” 2 x4 as cross braces. Note the the piece  with the single eye bolt goes at one end, the piece with no eye bolts goes at the other end and the piece with 3 eye bolts goes so it’s edge is 24” from the end. Predrill all  deck screw holes and screw together with 3” deck screws.
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Now attach the other 2 pieces of 72” 2x4 so they lay flat against the side rails and are flush with the outside edges of the frame. Screw into place.194F2B79-BA6C-4BB4-A35D-EC000A4AE7D6.thumb.jpeg.d3fef588cf8778c76750882eae844bb9.jpeg8B6D79C5-403B-49D1-BFBD-C9F30949242C.thumb.jpeg.1e7b67e680a529ebb9f9d287289cf514.jpeg

The sliding platform has the 14 1/2”  x 7”  piece  of 1/4” plywood as the bottom base. On top of this goes the 10  1/2” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood, in the pictures I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead. On top of this goes the 2 pcs of 10 7/8” 2x4. I used double sided tape to hold these parts together but you could also use glue or clamps. Make sure that there is equal amounts of the base plywood extending out on both sides. Screw together using 1 1/4” drywall screws.
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On one end of the sliding platform drill a hole in the center/ middle of one of the 2x4 and then screw in an eye bolt.4A98F9AA-3B24-480D-B379-E62C0FF5BE8E.thumb.jpeg.64ead18767ef95b1e07b772f83d8f7db.jpeg

Place the sliding platform between the rails of the frame , making sure that the eyebolt is facing the cross brace that has 3 eyebolts, and take a spare piece  of 2x4 and wedge it underneath the sliding platform so that the platform is pressed up against the side rails.

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If you are using the Glide Guards then attach them to the 18” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood with double sided tape. Now this piece can be attached to the sliding platform. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside edge of the rails and then screw in place with drywall screws. Slide the platform fore and aft to make sure it moves smoothly.
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On top of the sliding platform attach the 9 1/4” piece of 2x4 with deck screws.
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Attach the 24” x 24” piece  of 3/4” plywood to the top of the end of the frame. It should sit flush with the end of the frame and then extend equal amounts, 3”, out on the sides. Screw in place with drywall screws.
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Assembly of the shock cord:

Fold the shock cord in half, so there is 13 feet on either side. Pass the folded end through one of the eyebolts on the end next to the 24” x 24” plywood. Pass the free ends of the shock cord through the folded end and pull tight.
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Run the 2 ends of the shock cord up and through the pulley at the far end.
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Run the ends of the shock cord back through the other pulley.
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Pass the ends of the shock cord through the eyebolt on the sliding platform.Run the ends of the shock cord through the pulley.11A9A978-FC5E-4865-9747-7382D9325AAD.thumb.jpeg.c32d162e6e6bd117723cbfc5fce24e4b.jpeg

Run the ends of the shock cord through the other pulley.
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Pass the ends of the shock cord through the last eye bolt.  Tie the shock cord around itself using a figure 8 knot. Make sure the shock cord isn’t twisted and that the sliding platform moves smoothly when pushed. If you want more resistance then shorten the length of the shock cord.
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Apply a couple of layers of interlocking foam matts to the 24” x 24” plywood with the double side tape.

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Give it a test and then go have a beer.

If you need any more info let me know.

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